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After mostly climbing (and skiing) solo for the better part of the last 2 years, Kevin and I decided to climb something together. After Nun, we considered a number of objectives including Reo, Satopanth and Sasser, but we finally agreed on Kun. Initially, it was just Kevin and I, who were part of the team. We didn’t get our preferred July-Aug window from the IMF so we settled for the only available slot, i.e. June-July. The peak was booked almost a year in advance. About 5 or 6 months before the expedition, Samarth, a good friend, expressed interest in the project. I was apprehensive initially but agreed once we discussed his training regimen and his background in the Himalayas. Samarth also suggested that one of his close friends V might be interested in the expedition. I was not sure about a fourth member in the team; like they say, “three is a crowd”. But Samarth suggested that his friend won’t be a burden and will not affect the balance of the team adversely. Hesitantly, I agreed, but requested Samarth to keep me posted about V’s preparations and his own progress.
By the end of February, Samarth had to drop out of the expedition because of his Doctoral preoccupations. V decided to continue with his preps for the expedition. We were told by IMF that the pre expedition briefing would be held on the 22nd of June, which meant that we would most probably drive to the road head on the 24thor 25th. Apart from training rigorously for the big mountain, I had also planned to do some solo climbing in order to acclimatise well before the expedition. (click here for more on the solo trip) So I was in Leh by the 11th of June; I drove with my friend Tsering to Shan Sumdo on the 13th and trekked to Nimaling over the next two days. I tried to climb in the area for the next few days. I was back to Leh from the mountains on the 20th, having had some good exposure to high altitudes. I had attempted Dzo Jongo and an unnamed peak but had to return empty handed because of adverse weather. Nevertheless, I had been able to trek to the base camp via very high passes with a very heavy pack and was also able to attempt both Dzo Jongo and the Unnamed Peak from the same base. Unfortunately, both attempts were cut short by deep
powder and snow storms. I still took some positives from that solo trip, in that I was able to acclimatise at close to 18000 ft with heavy loads. The biggest gain for me from the solo outing was that I met with Ben and Petra, a German – Hungarian couple, doing the Merkha valley trek. They became very good friends and after returning to Leh from the solo trip, we hung out often. I showed them around Leh town and we ate at my favourite restaurants. It was good fun.
22 June 2015
I had to fly out of Leh on the morning of 22nd in order to be at the IMF by 2, for the briefing. I met Kevin and Sridhar, our LO, at the IMF. The briefing was short and crisp. Since Sridhar was to depart from Terminal D while Kevin and I were to fly out of T3, we agreed to meet in Leh the following day instead of the airport in Delhi. Besides, Sridhar was staying at the IMF dorm while Kevin had invited me to stay at his hotel in Paharganj for the night. We rode a rickshaw to Connaught Place where we had lunch at a nice restaurant; Kevin had a truck load of beer. The place was a little too loud for my liking but I never complain as long as the food is good. After lunch, we went to Adventure18 and Adventure Point, both on Benito Juarez Road. Around 7 we decided to go back to the hotel. But I had promised Kevin that drinks that night were on me. So, we had a drink at a bar near our Hotel; technically Kevin had a couple of beers, I just had Lime Soda. Around 10 we went back to the hotel and agreed to meet in the lobby at 3 the next morning. We had an early morning flight and T3 is a huge terminal, so we didn’t wanna take any chances.
I only slept around midnight, so I didn’t sleep much, and all the climbing in the last two weeks had made me a little sore, so I felt terrible getting out of bed. After a quick shower, I met with Kevin in the Lobby. We settled the bills and then arrived at the airport just in time, but not without a little misadventure. The stupid Rickshaw guy decided not to inform us that Rickshaws were not allowed right up to the terminal. He thought to enlighten us about this little inconvenience only at the Airport Shuttle point. What a scamster. Fortunately, we got the airport shuttle just in time and made it to the terminal. All my gear was in Leh with Ben and Petra, so we split Kevin’s gear (he was carrying 38 kilos, and he had 5 kilos at the hotel – Phew) to avoid excess baggage penalty. At the boarding gate we came across a bunch of school kids who I suspected were from Singapore. At Nimaling, Asta and Marty had mentioned that they were gonna escort a bunch of school kids to do the Merkha Valley Trek. Incidentally I was seated next to one of those kids. He confirmed that him and his friends were from Singapore and were indeed scheduled to do the Merkha Valley Trek.
23 June 2015
We arrived at Leh around 7. Sridhar had arrived before us and was waiting for us at the terminal, while Sam was out at the Taxi Stand to drop us at the hotel. From the Hotel I went to meet Ben and Petra, to check on them and of course to pick my gear as well. We agreed to meet for lunch and then I went back to the hotel. I was really exhausted because of the back to back to flights over the last two days, so a nap seemed like in order. Ben and Petra showed up around 1. We had lunch at Gezmos and then strolled around the market place for a while. Sam and the rest of the support staff sorted out the rations and equipment for the climb.
The rest of the day was very uneventful. V and I had agreed to meet as soon as I was back from the briefing, but his phone was not reachable the whole day. I figured he was not back from his trip to Pangong; He was with his wife and 3 year old daughter, driving around Ladakh. It must have been fun.
The following day we went to the Old market. I needed a shave before going to the mountains and I also had some of Kevin’s and my own stuff which needed repairs. The repairs and sundry were sorted out by noon. I was expecting to meet Ben and Petra in the evening, so lunch was at the Hotel where we were staying. I also had a word with Sam and Mingma (a good friend and a guide) and sort of scurried through our tentative plan for Kun once again. We were to drive out of Leh around 6 the next morning. The journey from Leh to Gulmatonga is usually covered in two days with a night halt at Kargil. But I decided to reach Gulmatonga in one day, which would allow us one extra day on the mountain. I am usually pretty fast on the mountain, but we needed as many days as possible in order to cater for possible bad weather days and to maximise our summit chances. Sridhar, had his doubts about us being able to make it to Gulmatonga in a day, but Kevin and I were intent on doing it in one instead of two days and brushed aside every thought suggesting otherwise. We met with Ben and Petra in the evening. V had also made it back to Leh by then. I met his missus and beautiful little daughter. I slept quite late that night since I went to meet V at his guest house to check his apparel and gear. I also had to pick a shovel from a friend because we didn’t have one, and would need one to dig out camping spots on the mountain, because all three camps above base would be on ice. It was 10 by the time I got to the room; I stuffed my pack and hit the sack. I slept quite late that night; not the best idea considering we had to start quite early the next morning; there was a very long bus ride ahead of us.
25 June 2015
We woke up around 5. My hopes for Kun were destroyed even before I had a chance to realise them. I was in a rush to get ready and get out of the room. In the rush I stubbed the little toe of my left foot against the furniture. My toe nail was broken and there was thick blood oozing out of the toe. I was appalled by the accident. It was totally avoidable but I was just too flimsy and careless; so I said to myself, did I just stub my toe or did I stub my chances of even attempting the peak, let alone succeeding. The moment I stubbed my toe, noticed the broken nail and saw the blood, I figured it was curtains for me. I cleaned up the wound with some dettol and went for a shower. By the time I got out, Kevin was gone. I was a little befuddled by his behaviour. I didn’t expect him to help me, or dress my wound, or carry my gear; but the man could have said a few words like “it will be ok” or some non sense along those lines. I didn’t make much of it, but for the next few hours I avoided talking to him. I dressed the wound with some Betadiene and limped to the lobby with my gear. After a few minutes, the pain began to increase. I had this stinging sensation when the top of the toe would touch the shoe upper. Oh it was definitely over for me, I said to myself. Sam was there to see us off. We hugged and he whispered in my ear to be careful. Around 6 we began driving. I was just down. I was in no mood to do this. I just got rid of my shoes and kept my feet elevated so the pain would subside. It helped a bit.
It was quite overcast that day and there were occasional showers. I am usually pretty resilient, so I thought, perhaps I might not make it to the summit, but I could give it my best shot. I am not one of those pumped up hot heads. For me it has to be method with madness. So for a very long time, I sat there in the bus trying to chalk out my game plan. The idea was to find a doctor and get some meds and a proper dressing, keep minimal weight on the left foot and avoid contact with the shoe upper. I thought I could visit a doctor in Kargil but Sridhar suggested that we could get help from an army unit about 4 hours from Leh. The downside of the plan was that I was to move with Mingma to the base camp the following day. Well a great man once said that each day has enough troubles of its own. So I thought it wise not to worry about the hike to base camp just yet. Around 11, we reached the army unit. The Medical Officer in charge was Capt Tiwari. He inquired about the pain, nature of wound and so on. He gave me some pain killers and dressed the wound. I asked him for some anti biotics, but he said that the disinfectants were good enough to avoid any infections. He did advise me to avoid physical exertion. I just smiled.
Soon we were on our way to Kargil in order to drop off some documents at the collectors and commissioner’s office. We had lunch at Sankho. We also picked some sundries from the small town and some fresh chicken too. It was overcast and bitterly cold. Kevin tried to start some sort of a conversation during lunch and I didn’t see the point in holding a grudge. The roads were literally nonexistent after Panikhar. We reached Tongol around half past 4 where we ran into an Indo- Bangladeshi team attempting Nun. They were to move to the base camp that day but stayed back because of the rains. I myself was split between moving to the base and staying at Gulmatonga the following day. Mingma was suggesting that we all stay at the road head for a day. I told him that I will take a call once we reach the road head. We reached the village around half past six. It was past twilight and by the time we pitched our tents it was quite dark. There were a couple of Porters there and I asked them to come visit us the next morning with their leader. Dorje the cook prepared some delicious chicken curry and rice and vegetables. It was pretty good. Around 9 the boys were in the tent. V was bunking with Sridhar while I was to be with Kevin in the other tent. Mingma and his help, Dawa were in the third tent while Dorje and his help Tenzin were gonna sleep in the mess tent. I didn’t go the tent after dinner. I hung around for a while to have a chat with Mingma. Mingma was a bit concerned because of my limp. I confessed to him that the pain was what I needed to be concerned about. While I was changing the dressing on the wound, I told Mingma that I was sticking to the original decision. I told him that the following day him and I would move to base camp while the rest of the team would stay back and get some rest. Then on the 27th when the rest of the team moved to the base, Mingma and I could do a load ferry to camp 1 and do a bit of reconnaissance of the route ahead of camp 1. It was quite ambitious considering my condition; but in my mind, I didn’t think I would go past camp 1 in any case, so this bit of effort would in a way be my contribution to the team’s effort in case Kevin and/or V made it to the summit. But that was still some distance away, for the moment we had our job cut out for us; it was to move to the base camp ahead of the team.
26 June 2015
I woke up around 7. I had the most wonderful sleep. I think it was the pain killer which kind of sedated me. That and the fact that I hadn’t slept quite well after the solo trip and then I went to the IMF briefing; early morning flights back to back and the stupid Delhi heat and the long arduous bus ride to the road head; a terrible combination. Well I wasn’t complaining that day because I slept quite well. I noticed that a couple of porters had arrived. I inquired about the leader and he told me that they would arrive a little later. I advised Mingma that we must get ready in any case. Mingma was a little apprehensive about moving to the base, but I assured him that I would be alright. We altered the plan a little. We thought if we had many porters at the road head, we could take half the load with us; the porters could return to the road head from the base that night and then Kevin and Dawa could bring the remaining half with the same porters the next day. There was no sign of the porters till 10. I was beginning to get a little concerned, but got ready and hung around. The views all around Gulmatonga were fabulous. The village is on a lush green pasture surrounded by beautiful pinnacles. I was wearing Dorjes sandal on my left foot to keep the toe from rubbing against the shoe upper. Mingma was not sure if it was a good idea since we would have to be walking on top of a terminal moraine, which meant climbing and traversing rocks, boulders, ice and scree. I still thought it was worth a shot, I put my left shoe in my pack just in case things went bad.
The porters showed up around 11. We picked up most of the rations, spare tents, anchors and other central equipment. Kevin was in charge while I was gone, so I advised him to move to the base camp the following day since the porters were to return back to the road head after dropping our stuff at the base camp. The porters were a little dodgy about making it to the base camp. I was stern about reaching the base camp and asked them not to touch the loads if they weren’t sure. I was deadly serious about making it to the base camp since I wanted to do a ferry to camp 1 and a recce of the area. I told the leader of the porters that if they were not sure about dropping the loads at the base camp then the whole team could move the next day because camping short of base that day made no sense. The porters said that they would drop the loads at the base, but I was not very convinced by the sound of their tone. I did stress on the fact that it was paramount for us to make it to the base camp that day. They agreed to do it. I started ahead of the others because of my handicap. The porters were still packing and strapping the loads while I started hiking towards the base camp. I looked like the stupidest hiker ever with a sandal on one foot and a shoe on the other. Mingma caught up with me in about half an hour. The first hour, may be 90 minutes were along a river bed. Easy hike. The gradient began to increase after that and the terrain was a lot more difficult. After two hours there were rocks and stones and scree on the trail. Around two and a half hours from the road head we hit the moraine. My feet began to freeze especially the left foot. I forgot the number of times we had to hike on dirty ice and on scree; cold, wet foot with pebbles in the footwear? Not the best feeling when you’re hiking. About 4 hours into the hike the porters started grumbling about how late it would be for them to get back to the road head if they dropped the loads at the base camp. I sternly told them that I was having none of that non sense. It was their fault they arrived late for work. Dropping us short of base served no purpose. I kept walking and stayed with Mingma right in the front just to send a message to the porters that we were very serious about going to the base camp.
Around 5, the porters gathered on a flat point and started talking among themselves. Mingma and I had to go back and ask them what was wrong. They said that they were not going any further. I was furious. Mingma tried to mediate and told me that yelling at them was not a very good idea since we had the remaining half of our stuff at the road head. I tried to talk the porters in to continuing but they would not budge. I was enraged by their behaviour, but things were out of my hands now. I called the leader aside and chalked out a backup plan. I asked him and his boys to start early from the road head and collect the load from our camping spot on their way up. Mingma and I decided that we could start for the base really early and then after a light snack we could carry on to camp 1 with some light loads and be back at the base by evening; by then the rest of the team would be at the base. It was going to be a very long day but that was the best we could do under the circumstances. I got a position fix and we were at about 4300m. The porters agreed to the plan; Mingma and I pitched the tent and got in our sacks after a cup of tea. We had dinner at around 6. I was surprised how cold it was. We were camped on rock and it was still so cold. I was concerned how cold it might be at the higher camps. I think one of the reasons it was really cold was because we were camped in an area close to two glaciers; really big glaciers; that and the fact that it was very windy. Good thing I had my toasty Cumulus sleeping bag. Mingma and I had nice long chat about the plan of action for the next day. We agree to be out of the campsite by 7 the next morning and reach the base before 10 hopefully. He also showed me pictures of his expedition to Sasser and Everest; fascinating stuff. It was good that he and I were bonding before we got into the serious sections of the climb.
27 Jun 2015
We overslept. I woke up around 7 and Mingma must have woken up only slightly earlier than I. We had some tea and then noodles for breakfast and then rushed out of the tent to be on our way. We packed the tent and were on our way by 8. I opted not to wear the sandal. It was a little uncomfortable in the beginning but I got used to the pain in a while. Besides I was much more comfortable hiking on ice and moraine with a pair of shoes than one; my feet were also not as cold as the day before. We hardly stopped for a break and kept hiking because we were really focused about getting to the base as early as possible and then carry on to camp 1 from there. About 65 minutes into the trail Mingma noticed a pen sort of formation about 50 meters higher than where we were. We were pretty sure that wasn’t the base camp but we both agreed that we might get good views from there. Mingma and I had never been to Kun before so we were just speculating about where the base camp could be. So we thought that a view from a high point would be really useful. We climbed to the Pen and as suspected, we were able to spot the base camp. There were two places to camp and we chose to camp at the higher of the two spots. We climbed down to the base camp from the Pen in 15 minutes. It was quarter to 10 by the time we got to the base camp; Pretty swift for two lazy duds who overslept earlier that morning. We had a quick snack and then began to get ready for the hike to camp 1; Get ready because the route from base camp to camp 1 was all on ice; deep ice. We wore our tights and shells and packed some gear that we could carry to camp 1. When we were gearing up, I realised that my boots were at the campsite where we slept the night before. I just couldn’t believe I made such a rookie mistake. Mingma asked me to stay back but I was not having any of that. I told him I would come with him as high as I could in my hiking boots. We weren’t carrying extremely heavy loads, so I didn’t think we would sink very deep in the snow. We started hiking around half past 10. The snow was a little crusty initially but after an hour it began to get slushy and our feet began to sink in the snow. The water resistance on my shoes began to wear off after a while and I could feel the wetness seeping in. The base camp was at 4500m and we were at 5000m by half past noon. Around 1 we were at an altitude of 5200m. The snow was just too deep beyond that point and my feet were just frozen. I couldn’t even move let alone climb any further. Lesson learnt – Don’t bring a knife to a gunfight. MIngma suggested that the campsite was not too
high from where we were; so he asked me to rush to the base and thaw my feet while he would dump the gear at camp 1 and be back soon. It was a good plan. Heck, it was the only plan at that moment. The winds were unforgiving and it was extremely cold and I had to get my feet out of snow and inside a sleeping bag at the earliest. I must admit that an hour on the downhill and I was feeling much warmer. I reached the base camp in about 70 minutes. The boys were there. Kevin and Sridhar were there to receive me. V was not to be seen. Sridhar told me that he was fine; slow – but fine. I had some tea and got into a pair of warm socks. I would have loved to get into my sleeping bag, but hung around to have a chat with the guys, just to lift their spirits. Mingma was back at base by 2.
V arrived at the base at close to 5 in the evening. He seemed exhausted from the long hike, I brought him some tea. Later that evening Mingma told me that he was a little concerned about the route ahead of camp 1. We agreed to discuss that over the next few days when we dropped loads at camp 1. Kevin and Mingma were pleased with my effort especially because of the resilience I demonstrated despite the handicap. I told Kevin that it was probably curtains for me but that I would do my best to help stock up camp 1 to make sure that the expedition was a success. He was a little disappointed to hear me say that. I assured him that if my pain subsides and if the wound heals even slightly, I would do my best to move along with them; but at that moment in time I was not thinking beyond camp 1. We had just rice and lentils and fried vegetables for lunch that day. But dinner was fabulous. We had fried chicken with rice and vegetables and roti. We ate well cause we had a big day to follow. V didn’t look the part, so I suggested he rest at the base camp the following day.
28 June 2015
I was up by 5. Since Mingma and I had already been to camp 1 the day before, we both agreed that an early morning start was paramount in order to avoid the slushy snow by mid day. After a light breakfast we started out towards camp1 more or less around 6. I started first and then Kevin followed by Mingma and Dawa. All of us had loads. Mingma and Dawa were carrying a few rolls of fixed rope. Kevin and I were carrying a lot of fuel and anchors. I was in the front in the beginning but about a couple of hours later we had to wait for Kevin because we were approaching crevassed terrain and it wasn’t safe to tread alone. We made it to camp 1 by quarter past 10. Mingma and I decided on the route to camp 2. We decided on two options; a climb to rabbit rock and then climb the ridge from there to the plateau which would lead to camp 2. There was also a wall quite steep varying between 55 – 75 degrees; very steep for comfort but it was the least risky if one had the skill and endurance to get on top of it. Least risky because there was no crevasse risk except places close to the base of the wall and because of its steepness, the wall also didn’t pose any risk of avalanche. The only question was whether V and Kevin would be able to measure up to the challenge. Kevin was a known entity and I was pretty confident that he would be able to up his game. V was the unknown entity since I haven’t ever climbed with him. But we had a few days to figure out the team composition for the ascent above camp 1. We had a drink and headed back to base. We were back at base camp by Half past 11. A pretty good effort overall. We spent the rest of the day relaxing. Kevin wanted to do another load drop the following day, but I advised him against it. We had decided to Move to camp 1 on the morning after the following day and in my opinion a day’s rest would have done Kevin a lot of good. We had quite a few difficult days ahead of us and food and rest at the base camp was something we would miss dearly once we were on the mountain. I did think that V could come along with us to camp 1. Sridhar also wanted to come along with us. Since I wasn’t sure about V’s endurance levels, I suggested that he just carry some of his personal equipment instead of any communal/central equipment. That way, even if he wasn’t able to make it to camp 1 on time, we would not have to carry any communal gear back to the base.
29 June 2015
Mingma, Dawa and I were off to a flying start. V told me that he would follow us with Sridhar. I didn’t think it was a good idea lagging behind from the beginning. Plus since they were probably slower than the rest, they should have ideally started early. But I didn’t want to start the day on a negative note, so I left it to the individual. Kevin was still in his tent when we started. I started climbing about 20 minutes before Mingma and Dawa. Somewhere along the route I veered off the track and before I realised I was on a steeper, longer more difficult route. I noticed Mingma and Dawa behind me to my left waving at me, but I was too far ahead to return from there. I oriented myself and fixed my position with respect to camp 1 and continued on a heading towards camp1 instead of heading back to the track. The three of us made it to camp 1 at about the same time. Mingma grinned and said that if had stuck to the track I might have been there half an hour earlier. I just nodded and said that I made a stupid mistake and that next time I would be careful.
We hung around for a drink and then pretty much jogged back to the base camp. We were there by 11. Up and down in 5 hours. A slightly better effort than the day before. On our way back, we noticed Sridhar and V. They were not even past the half way mark. Since the weather was packing up, I didn’t think it was safe for them to continue to camp 1. I advised Sridhar and V to return to base from that spot. V insisted that he wanted to continue to camp 1 on his own. I had to refuse because the weather was deteriorating and he was just at the half way mark and the terrain was much steeper after the half way mark, so it would take him even longer to cover the remaining half. He seemed to be able to comprehend what I was suggesting and requested me to let him continue hiking on the trail for another 10 minutes. I couldn’t say no to that. I told him that when he sees Sridhar turn around, he should also turn around. He agreed. I was not too concerned about Sridhar since he was present there in the capacity of a Liaison Officer and so making to camp 1 or not made no difference to him.
We lazed around camp the rest of the day. Kevin and I were airing out our sleeping bags and apparel since we had planned to shift base to camp 1. We had originally planned 4 load ferries, but I was pleasantly surprised that we were able to drop almost all our required equipment at camp 1 in two drops. SO we were left with only our personal gear and some sundries that need to be ferried and that could very well be done the day we moved to camp 1. Frankly, because we were so busy the last few days, I totally forgot about my broken toe nail. I used to feel the pain only in the afternoons when I would get out of the climbing boots. Since I was considering moving to camp 1, I told Kevin that may be I wasn’t gonna rule myself out just as yet. That afternoon a big herd of sheep passed us by. They were herded by 5 Kashmiris who were on their way to Gulmatonga and the neighbouring villages to find pastures for the sheep. One of the herdsmen had a 2 day old lamb. Kevin and I played with the little thing for a few minutes. It was the cutest thing ever. I was really happy that things were on track thus far, but my joy was short lived. That evening the weather packed up. There was a whiteout all around base camp. Around 6 that evening there was some light precipitation. There was light drizzle followed by light to moderate snowfall. Kevin asked me if it was a concern. I assured him that we were still on track. We saved a day on our way to the road head, another day on our way to the base camp and we did the load ferries in 3 (including the move to camp the following day or the day after) as opposed to 4. So we had a few days to spare. Mingma asked me for the course of action for the next day. I suggested that we take a call at 5 the next morning. If there was any sort of precipitation, we would hang around the base camp till 9. If it was still coming down at 9 then we would call it off and treat the day as a rest day; which Mingma, Dawa and I deserved in any case.
30 June 2015
I woke up at around half past 4. I called out to Kevin from within the tent and told him that I was gonna delay the decision till about 9. Although I had an idea that we wouldn’t be moving to camp 1 that day since the precipitation was quite intense that morning, it made sense to keep our options open. Tenzin brought us some tea at around 6. I got out of the tent at 7 and went to the kitchen tent to meet with the boys. It was still snowing and the boys looked comfortable in the kitchen. I didn’t want to spoil the mood, so I asked the boys to relax. Mingma and I agreed that we would establish camp 1 the next day. Both Mingma and I had been exerting ourselves for the last 4 days and perhaps this was a blessing in disguise. After breakfast we just sat in the kitchen tent talking about all sorts of stuff mostly peaks and girls and peaks and girls and ….. Did I mention peaks and girls?
V and I had a little chat that afternoon. He didn’t quite look the part so I just inquired about his welfare. Perhaps something was going on in his head or he was in a bad mood or something; whatever the reasons, he took a crack at me. Although I was tempted to respond likewise, I backed out because that seemed like the respectable thing to do and I didn’t want to dignify his behaviour by reacting in response to his shocking behaviour. Can’t blame a leader for checking on the welfare of the team, I mean all I asked was if he was alright; just like I would ask anyone who didn’t look like he was on top of the world. Fortunately, we were able to sort things out by evening. I was wise enough to avoid talking about the incident earlier and just spoke about the plan to ascend the mountain and about the move to camp 1 the following day. Because he had been slow thus far, I told V to give his personal gear to Dawa to be ferried to camp 1 the following day. So he was only gonna carry his sleeping bag, a jacket, toiletries and sundry. I was hoping that this would ensure that V would be able to move swiftly between base camp and camp 1 the next day. We had planned to move out of base camp as early as possible the following day.
1 July 2015
V and I woke up around the same time. I called on Kevin from my tent to make sure he was up as well. I
was ready and out of the tent by 5. The skies were clear, so Kevin and I were on our way by half past 5. I asked V to get out of base camp as soon as possible to avoid getting stuck in the slush later in the day. Mingma and Dawa were about half an hour behind us. Sridhar was also planning to come to camp 1, but he was gonna return to base the same day. Kevin and I were very swift for the initial part of the climb till about 5000m. After that he lagged behind a bit; he was still swift but a little behind. I made it to camp 1 in about 2 hours 50 minutes while Kevin made it in 3 hours and a half. It was great fun; at so many places we were literally running or jogging up hill. I was exhausted but elated. Since I was the first to reach the campsite, I felt responsible to pitch the tent. Kevin arrived after a while and then Mingma and then Sridhar. I asked Dawa to stay with V so he wasn’t as swift as he usually is. I could tell from his body language that he wasn’t too thrilled about the job I assigned him; to stay with V during the move to camp 1. He did it anyway because him and Mingma have always been nice to me. I was pleased that Sridhar at his age was able to make it to camp 1 in 5 hours and 20 minutes. We took some snaps and then continued setting up the camp site. After pitching up the tents, Mingma and I got busy with looping up the snow stakes for the technical sections of the mountains. It had been 6 hours since we left the base camp and over three hours since I reached camp 1. I was beginning to feel a little concerned about V and Dawa. A few minutes later I noticed Dawa in the distance. V was still not to be seen. Kevin thought that may be V turned back with Sridhar, but when Dawa reached the campsite, he said that V would make it eventually. I thanked him for the effort and made him some juice. Around noon the weather packed up all of a sudden and in 5 minutes the clear skies were covered by dense white clouds. There was a heavy snowfall in the next 5 minutes. It had now been close to 7 hours since Dawa and V left base camp. With zero visibility conditions I was worried about how V would home in to camp 1. Yes the logical thing to do would be to follow the tracks; the problem was that the visibility was so bad that I wasn’t able to see my feet, let alone the track. So I figured V would face the same problem.I told Mingma and Dawa that I was going to look for V. Dawa insisted that he would come along with me. We had to climb down for about 15 – 20 minutes. V was headed in a slightly different direction. Once we tracked him, I took his pack and asked Dawa to stay with him till they reached the camp. I was frozen by the time I got back to the camp. I put V’s stuff in Kevin’s tent, emptied his sack and laid out his mattress and sleeping bag. I got inside the other tent that I was gonna share with Mingma and Dawa and tried to make myself warm. It was well over 7 hours by the time V made it to the campsite. He looked exhausted, so in the evening during supper I asked V if he wanted to come along with the rest of the team to ferry the load to camp 2 the following day or if he wished to take a day off. He opted to relax the next day. Although now I was pretty upbeat about going beyond camp 1, I was a little sceptical about V in case we chose to do the wall as opposed to the route from behind rabbit rock. That night, Mingma and I agreed to start the ascent to camp 2 at about 5 the next morning.
2 & 3 July 2015
The next two days we moved stuff between camp 1 and 2. One the 2nd, we set out towards rabbit rock at about 5 in the morning. It was excruciatingly cold and slightly windy. We were at the rabbit rock by quarter past 6. The news was not so good. The whole terrain beyond rabbit rock was heavily crevassed and was leading to a 40-50 degree climb where it seemed like an avalanche was waiting to happen. I looked at Mingma and we agreed right away that the only way that was safe to get to camp 2 was the wall to the right of Rabbit Rock. So we continued climbing a bit and then traversed to the right. It was a steepish traverse but we were able to negotiate it safely and were at the base of the wall by 7. It seemed like we wasted 2 hours but at least we had eliminated the easier but riskier route. The wall was a lot more challenging and a lot steeper but there were a lot fewer objective hazards compared to the other route. Mingma opened the route while I belayed him. After the first two pitches, Dawa took over the belaying duties while Kevin and I were climbing together. We had fixed about 400-450 m till noon when Kevin and I were beginning to feel fatigued and exhausted. The problem was that returning from there would affect us adversely since we were carrying stuff that needed to be dumped at camp 2. Kevin suggested that he didn’t wanna be spent on a load ferry and we hadn’t even made it to camp2 yet. I agreed with him. I asked Mingma if we could share Kevin’s load. Dawa took a coil of rope that Kevin was carrying and I took the tent that he was carrying. I decided to carry on with Mingma while Kevin decided to descend a couple of hundred meters and wait on a ledge. Mingma and Dawa continued fixing the route ahead while I climbed till about 6000m. Mingma was slightly higher than I was and shouted that we were hardly 100 odd meters short of the top of the wall. He suggested that I keep company while he lay out the last bit of fixed line. We climbed down together. It was about half past 2 by the time we reached our tents at camp 1. Kevin seemed a little dejected with the day’s proceedings but I cheered him with a simple reasoning that when we actually move to camp 2, we would be rested and would start much earlier in the morning and we wouldn’t have to worry about climbing down the same day. So we would make it to camp 2 in very good time. I also reminded him that we spent 2 hours getting to and away from the rabbit rock which we would not be doing on the day when we move to camp 2.
We had some Tang and some snacks. A little later we had some tea and then lunch. We had an early dinner. Mingma suggested that the following day Him and Dawa would do a recce around camp 2, so the rest of us could relax at camp 1. After dinner, Mingma and I discussed V’s position. Mingma strongly felt that V would struggle on the wall. The rabbit rock route itself was quite challenging and much more demanding compared to the route between the base camp and camp 1. The wall was a totally different league compared to the rabbit rock route. Our reasoning was that if V was struggling on a 30 – 45 degree slope – with a light pack and at a lower altitude (between base camp and camp 1), the he might most likely get himself into trouble on a steep 60-75+ degree wall, with a heavy pack and at a much higher altitude. Asking Dawa to keep him company between base camp and camp 1 was one thing, but asking him to stay with V on that wall would be unfair and would be risking two lives. The next day after Mingma and Dawa came back from their recce trip, I made them some juice and during lunch we discussed the V subject. We decided that we would clear the camp between 3 and 4 the next day. V agreed to hike to the base camp. We slept quite early that night.
4 & 5 July 2015
I was up at about 2. I called for Kevin from the tent and he was up in a jiffy. Kevin was in our tent for some
tea. We were geared up for the climb by 3. Mingma and Dawa were hanging around to make sure that V was on his way to the base camp at first light. The clim